Behind a Gaoding series press conference, how much exquisite skill has been paid to complete the production of a dress. Only by understanding the history and technology of Gaoding, can we feel the essence of fashion. From the origin of fashion to the development of modern commerce, with the change of times, fashion is also changing, from origin to prosperity, from decline to rebirth. Nowadays, advanced customization can still exist in modern society, and it must have its corresponding value, because it is not only a gorgeous dress, but also contains the evolution and development of the whole fashion process.

The origin of Haute Couture

        Suits originated in England, and so far Savile row is still the world's model of men's wear. Later, British clothing technology was passed on to France, Germany, Spain, Italy and other countries in Europe, and to India and Japan in Asia. China's suit technology is mainly from Japan, and now it's like Italy. However, due to the influence of some traditional dressing habits, it's somewhat incoherent and unsophisticated.

        Saville street is located near Oxford circle, London, UK. It has been known as the holy land of global men's clothing customization for 200 years. Senior officials, rich businessmen and performing stars all over the world take a suit handmade by Saville's top tailor shop as their identity symbol.

        There are three types of suits produced by Saville Street: off the peg or ready to wear, made to measure and bespoke

        Semi customization refers to that the customer selects a suit of ready-made clothes, which is measured by the tailor and then modified on the basis of the garment to make it more in line with the shape of the guest. The price of semi customization in Saville street can be as high as 700-1000 pounds (6174-8820 yuan).

        Bespoke is the essence of Saville Street customization, and it is also the foundation of its prosperity for 200 years. It usually takes 4-12 weeks for a suit to be fully customized on Saville street, with three tries and adjustments in between, which is still the case when the guests are in London. In fact, many Americans have to wait for a year for clothes made by top tailors in Saville when they visit the United States. The guild of Saville street has strict customization for bespoke. Only those who fully meet these conditions can become bespoke. Each suit produced by Saville takes 40 hours to make, 95% of which is done by hand. Two suits start at 1700 pounds (15000 yuan) and three suits start at 2200 pounds (19404 yuan).

Go to Saville street to customize a suit, not only to have a unique suit in the world, but also to greatly improve your wearing experience:

        1. One person, one page. That is, the tailor will tailor a version according to the shape of the customer, instead of modifying and adjusting the existing version (such as setting the mother or pushing the version) according to the customer's body shape.

        2. Use horn buckles instead of resin buttons like most finished suits. This is actually a matter of cost, but Mr. Mahon, the top tailor of Saville, specifically pointed out this problem: the buttons of Saville's suit must be made from the horn of some animal, which is a symbol of quality.

        3. All buttonholes are manually locked, and genuine buttonholes should be opened under the cuff buttons.

        4. For the suit with stripe or check fabric, pay attention to the stripe or check. For example, the stripe on the pocket cover and the stripe on the top of the pocket cover should be aligned. The check on the body should be consistent with that on the sleeve.

        5. The Saville Street suit follows the British tradition and emphasizes fit, self-cultivation and line sense. It is usually slightly wider at the shoulders, tightened at the waist and hourglass shaped on the upper body. The shoulder pad is thin to make the shoulder line natural, while the armhole is raised to provide enough space for the arm to move.

        6. In terms of style, Saville's suit styles are incomparable among other countries. Pants, for example, have thousands of styles to choose from. There are often changes in the pockets of shirts. For example, two pockets are made into stand pockets, which former Prime Minister Tony Blair often wears; or a ticket pocket is added to the right side. British people like plain front, i.e., non provincial or double pleat.

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